Ornamental shoe and method of making the same



9 SABO 2, 33,5

ORNAMENTAL sno s AND METHOD OF MAKING THE suns Filed- March 28. 1942ZSheets-Sheet lmvEN-rom Louis 5050 Aug. 28, 1945. L. SABO ,38 5

-0HNAMENTAUSHOE Aub' METHOD OF MAKING THE SAME Filed March 28, 1942 2SheetsSheet 2 'IIIIIIIIIIIIIIllWIIII/l Patented Aug. 28, 1945 ORNAMENTALSHOE AND METHOD OF MAKING THE SAME Louis Sabo,

Astoria, N. Y., assignor to Herman B. -Delman, New York, N. Y.

Application March 28, 1942, Serial No. 436,655 Claims. (01. 3624.5)

The present invention is a continuation in part of my application SerialNo. 387,556 filed April 9,

i 1941, and relates to the art of shoemaking.

Oneof the principal objects of the invention is to provide a method bywhich women's shoes m y be decorated at a low cost.

A further. principal object is to provide a method permitting theoperation of trimming a breast flap and attaching it to a heel of a shoeto be performed by an unskilled person, and still to have the finishedshoe appear accurately made.

A further object is to provide a method by means of which a decoratedbreast flap of a shoe integral with the sole may be formed to produce anornamental effect.

Another object is to provide a method by means of which portions of thecovering material for the heel may be visible to an observer.

Another object" is to provide a method which permits to make a decoratedshoe without additional operation.

Another object is to provide a shoe having a decorated breast flapintegral with the sole to provide an ornamental effect;

Another object is to provide a shoe having a breast flap of the heelcomprising an embossed decoration.

Further objects and advantages of the invention will beset forth in partin the following specification and in part will be obvious therefromwithout being specifically pointed out, the same being realized andattained as pointed out in the claimshereof.

In making shoes for women, heels are used which differ in length, width,and form of the breasts, and it has been the general practice to makethe flap for the breast of the heels of greater width than that of thebreast, and after the flap has been cemented to the breast, to trim thelaterally extending portions with a knife by manual operation, whichrequires time, and also requires skill to prevent cutting the heel inthe act of removing the trim.

Another method for trimming the breast flap of a heel is also in use bywhich the breast flap, which has been made larger than the breast of theheel, first is held against the breast of the heel and a pencil used tooutline the cut to be made, thereafter the flap is bent back andoperated upon with a suitable tool.

I have a co-pending application, Ser. No. 432,- 313, filed Feb. 25,1942, for improvement in machines for shoemaking, which relates to amasaid flap to the breast of a heel, said heel having been attached tothe shoe in its final position before performing said cutting operationon the flap.

The object of the aforementioned methods of the prior art has invariablybeen to form a flap for the breast of a heel adapted to cover the entirebreast portion of the heel for providing an even surface appearing onthe breast.

The objects of my present invention have been cited herein above anddiffer widely from the objects of the prior art: Intentionally I leave apor-' tion of the breast of the heel uncovered by the flap, thusproviding a space or a plurality of spaces for revealing the coveringmaterial of the heel on the breast side. Furthermore, I provide thecontour of the breast flap with an ornamental outline to stress thecontrast between the color and material of the covering material, whichmay be leather, silk or the like, and the flap placed thereon.

Following the reason that a breast of a heel is visible when the weareris seated, especially when the legs of the wearer are crossed, or may bevisible and thereby appeal to a purchaser when the shoe is on display, Iprefer to provide the fiap, in

- addition to the decorated contour with an emscribed in thisspecification.

chine for cutting the breast flap prior to affixing The machine used inconnection with the present invention is not-specifically describedherein, but is set forth in my co-pendingapplication mentioned hereinabove.

Referring to the drawings which form part of the specification:

Fig. 1 is a side elevational view, partly in section, of a machinedesigned for the purpose above set forth showing a shoe resting insupported and adjusted position with relation to a housing and aflap-forming cutting device, ready for the forming operation;

Fig. 2 is a perspective view showing part of the under side of a shoewith the heel attached in its final position and the formed flap priorto attachment to the breast of the heel;

Fig. 3 is a horizontal cross section through the heel taken along theline 3-3 of Fig. 2;

Fig. 4 is a perspective view similar to the view of Fig. 2, but showingthe flap attached to the breast portion of the heel;

Fig. 5 is a front elevation showing the breast of a heel and a decoratedflap attached thereto, the side contour of which being inside thecontour of the heel;

Fig. 6 is a perspective view similar to the view of Fig. 2, but showinga fiapof different shape secured to the breast of the heel;

Fig. 7 is a front elevation of the embodiment shown in Fig. 6;

Fig. 8 is a horizontal cross section through the heel taken along lin8-8 of Fig. "I;

Fig. 9 is a front elevation of a heel and a flap of another shapethereon, the edges of the breast portion of the heel being rounded;

Fig. 10 is a sectional view of a cutting device used for the purposeabove set forth; and

Fig. 11' is a plan view showing the underside of the upper member of thecutting device from the line l|-ll of Fig. 10.

In carrying the invention into effect I provide a machine as illustratedin Fig. 1 adapted to support a shoe which may or may not yet have itsheel attached in final position, in a manner which permits the cuttingdevice to trim the flap. For the purpose of the later on to be describedembossing, the machine provides that the cutter operates on the roughside of the leather of the flap, as shown in Fig. 1.

The shoe is held resiliently in a predetermined position and issupported with relation to a carriage sliding in a housing, for,slidably bringing the shoe into a position to be operated upon.

With relation to the top of said housing a cutting device is connectedadapted to impart to the flap the required shape. A more detaileddescription of the machine and the means to insure a proper coacting ofthe various parts thereof appears in my co-pending application.

Referring to the drawings in which similar ref erence numerals designatecorresponding parts throughout the several views, III designates a shoeon a last and supported with relation to the machine l I; a heel H ofsaid shoe is attached thereto in its final position. I3 designates abreast flap integral with the outsole of said shoe and turned backwardsto lie with its smooth face on top of a plat I4 supported with relationto the machine H. A movable cutter I5 i connected with relation to saidmachine above said plate l4 and coactive therewith to trim said flap.The heel I! may also be attached to the shoe after the trimmingoperation of the breast flap has been performed.

The heel l2 of the shoe is covered with a covering material I6, saidmaterial usually consisting of leather, silk, or the like, covering saidheel on its rear and side portions and partially on the breast in theform of narrow, strips ending in a contour substantiall parallel to theedges formed between the breast and. the side portions of the heel. Atap IT on top of said. heel is shaped similar to the heel but protrudingfor a small portion on the breast side thereof. In accordance with myinvention the flap is first shaped .by the cutting device and thenplaced on the breast of the heel and cemented thereon providing a flushsurface with the protruding portion of the tap I! (see Figs. 4 and 6).The contour of the fla l3 conforms lengthwise to the length of the heelwhen attached thereto and, in the embodiment shown in Fig. 4, alsoconforms continually to the contour of the heel l6 only with the outeredges l8 of the contour design; the inner edges 20, however, providewith the outer edges I8 a plurality of triangular-shaped spaces throughwhich the covering material is visible. This construction providesscalloped ornamental edges on the breast flap overlying the heelcovering material. The distance between the oppositely disposed edges 20is greater than the distance between the inner contours of said narrowstrips of the covering material l6. Thereby the uncovered portion 2| ofthe heel left blank by the absence of the covering material I6 isentirely covered by the flap I3.

In the embodiment shown in Fig. 5 the entir width of the flap I3 issmaller than the width of the breast of the heel, but the uncoveredspace 2| is also completely covered. This embodiment is preferably usedto facilitate the cementing of the flap to the heel as the smaller widthof the flap in comparison with the breast of the heel permits aninaccuracy of placement which still would hardly be visible to anobserver. This makes it possible to use unskilled labor for theseoperations, whereas heretofore, when the flap covered the entire breastof the heel great care had to be exercised in cementing the pro-formedflap to the heel, and skilled or half skilled labor had to be employedto perform the operation satisfactorily.

Also in the embodiment shown in Figs. 6 to 8, slight aberrations fromthe common center of the breast and the flap will not be noticeable toan observer. In this embodiment the width of the flap covers entirel theuncovered space 2|, but permits the covering material it to be revealedat the breast of the heel.

Figure 9 shows a further modification in which the heel breast flap, asin Figures 4 and 5, has ornamental scalloped edges and is appliqued overportions of the heel covering material I6 on the breast portion of theheel. However, the scalloped edges are of different configuration.

The cutting device shown in Figs. 10 and 11 comprises a plate 22 whichmay be integral with or connected to the plate I4, and a cutter 23 c0-active therewith having a cutting edge 24 Of a contour and shapecorresponding to the desired contour to 'be imparted to the flap. Inaddition to the ornamental effect provided by decorating the contour ofthe flap, an embossed ornamentation may be imparted to the flap, asshown in Fig. 7, by means of a boss 25 conforming to the shape of theornamentation desired for the embossing and a recess 26 in the plate 22also 'conforming thereto but of slightly greater size to provide spacefor the leather between said boss and said recess, and to impede astamping action into the leather of the flap by the boss 25.

Certain of the advantages of the invention have already been hereinreferred to. It may be useful, however, particularly to allude at thispoint to the fact that th decorations may be imparted to the'breast flapof the heel without additional operation, but during the cuttingoperation to trim the flap. A further advantage is an increase in theproduction of shoemaking by using the flaps described, as less care hasto be exercised for correctly placing the flap on the heel and cementingit thereto, than was necessary heretofore, because no accurate placingis required. Heretofore, an inaccurate placing of a flap conforming tothe contour of the breast was immediately noticeable, whereas the use ofmy flap makes such inaccuracy not visible to an observer.

The contrast between the covering material and the flap, both visible onthe breast of the heel in my present inventionappeals to the purchaserof a shoe and, therefore, is apt to increase the sale of this type ofshoe.

The embossing described herein may be used with great advantage byimparting a distinct decorative effect to a shoe, not known heretofore.

As the boss 25 may be interchangeable, a great variety of decorations ismade possible including, for instance, initials of the manufacturer orthe prospective customer, etc.

Other advantages may be obvious from what has been said hereinabove anddo not have to be particularly pointed out.

I do not limit myself to the particular details of the method and meansset forth in the foregoing specification and illustrated in theaccompanying drawings, as the same refer to and set forth only certainembodiments of the invention and it is obvious that the same may bemodified, within the scope of the appended claims, without departingfrom the spirit and scope of the invention.

Having thus described the invention what I claim as new and desire to besecured by Letters Patent is as follows:

1. A method of making a shoe having a decorated heel breast flap of aheel comprising'the steps of attaching a heel and a sole having a breastflap to said shoe in final position, thereafter trimming the flap to anornamental contour and simultaneously embossing said flap to provide anembossed ornamentation, and thereafter securing said flap in place.

2. In the manufacture of a shoe having a heel, the steps of providing aheel breast flap blank of greater area than the finished heel breastfiap desired, simultaneously trimming and ornamenting said breast flapand'thereafter securing said flap in place on the breast of the heel.

3. A method of making a shoe, comprising the steps of attaching to anupper a sole providing an integral heel breast fiap blank, attaching aheel to said shoe in its final position, simultaneously trimming andornamenting said breast flap to give it a decorative appearance andthere- 'after securing said flap in place on the breast of the heel. i

4. A method of making a shoe having a decorated heel breast fiap,comprising the steps of attaching a heel and a. hole having anunomamented heel breast flap to said shoe in final position, thereaftertrimming and simultaneously ornamenting said breast flap, and thereaftersecuring said fiap in place on the breast of the heel..-

5. In the manufacture of a shoe having a heel, the steps of providing aheel breast flap of greater area than the finished heel breast flapdesired, thereafter trimming said heel breast flap and simultaneouslyproviding said flap with a cut out ornamentation and thereafter securingsaid flap in place on the breast of the heel. I

6. In the manufacture of a shoe having a heel, the steps of providing aheel breast flap of greater area than the finished heel breast flapdesired, thereafter trimming said flap to an ornamental contour andsimultaneously embossing said flap to provide an embossed ornamentation,and thereafter securing said flap in place.

'7. A method of making a shoe which comprises attaching a heel breastflap blank to said shoe, trimming said breast flap and simultaneouslyproviding a cut-out ornamentation of said flap, and thereafter securingsaid ornamented fiap in place on the breast of the heel, with the edgeof said flap spaced inwardly of and non-parallel to the contour of saidbreast portions.

8. The combination with a shoe comprising a heel at least partiallysurrounded by a covering material, of a heel breast flap having acut-out ornamentation and secured to the breast of said heel inoverlapping relation with said covering material with the edge of saidflap spaced inwardly from and non-parallel to the contour of the breastof the heel to Provide in conjunction 'with said covering material anornamented heel breast.

9. A method of making a shoe having a decorative heel breast fiap,comprising the steps of attaching a heel and a sole having a heel breastflap blank to said shoe in final position, thereafter positioning saidheel breast fiap blank between opposed members of a cutting devicehaving a cutting edge of a contour corresponding to the desiredornamental contour to be imparted to the flap, actuating said device toout from said blank a heel breast flap of ornamental shape and of lesserarea than the breast portion of said heel, and thereafter securing saidheel breast flap in place on the breast of the heel, with the edge ofsaid flap spaced inwardly from and non-parallel to the contour of saidbreast portion to provide an ornamental effect.

and sole affixed to said upper, covering material covering theback andsides and at least a por-* tion of the breast of said heel, said solehaving a heel breast fiap of an appearance contrasting 10. In a shoecomprising an upper and a heel I

